Day 4
Monday, 11 August 2014
Place: Dubrovnik
Day 4 and we were still in Dubrovnik.
One day is definitely not enough for a city like this. If you ask me, I could easily have stayed for at least two more, wandering, day and night, in the narrow streets of the dreamy Old City, getting sweaty, getting tired, getting excited!
Truth be told, it’s not wise to wander the city during the hot days of August. Of course there’s always the option of the sea, the beach and the deck chair, but I am sure that if you, too, had only two days at your disposal, you would have forsaken the beach. Isn’t that right?
For those of you, who, like us, have chosen the Old City, despite the scorching 30 degrees Celsius, there is an oasis, hidden inside the narrow streets. It’s Café Buza, a café built literally on top of rocks, which I have no idea how we discovered.
It’s outside the city walls, overlooking the Adriatic Sea and Italy. You walk behind St. Blaise church, past bar Hemingway and the Cathedral, up the Spanish Steps (yes, Dubrovnik also has some, like Rome), towards the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius Loyola and then you creep in at some narrow street near the walls.
It’s outside the city walls, overlooking the Adriatic Sea and Italy. You walk behind St. Blaise church, past bar Hemingway and the Cathedral, up the Spanish Steps (yes, Dubrovnik also has some, like Rome), towards the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius Loyola and then you creep in at some narrow street near the walls.
With me so far?
Saint Blaise Church
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The Spanish Steps
Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius Loyola
At that point you’ll come across this sign and then you’re out of the walls.
At last you’re here!
An amazing joint, on the rocks outside the walls, with an incredible view.
An amazing joint, on the rocks outside the walls, with an incredible view.
Still, this oasis was not such a good idea, after all. The spot is indeed marvelous, but the time of day was completely wrong; you can’t stand being under the sun for more than half an hour. It is worth going there, however, to enjoy a cold beer outside the walls, and even take a dive, if you so like.
I am sure it’s much better at night, but we didn’t go back – we had other plans for our fourth night in the city.
More about that, further down.
I am sure it’s much better at night, but we didn’t go back – we had other plans for our fourth night in the city.
More about that, further down.
After the Cold & Hot Drinks at Café Buza, I was even more sea thirsty, so we ended up ordering mussels and octopus at some square in the Old City. So the mussels arrived, delicious looking and gorgeous, and I felt my heart was going to burst from excitement. Until I put my spoon inside the tin bowl and discovered a small hill of garlic staring back at me. And next to that another hill, and underneath the appetizing mussels a whole mountain range of grated garlic.
What a kill-joy this garlic! I really despise it!
What a kill-joy this garlic! I really despise it!
Other than that, it was really wonderful.
We decided to drown our mussel disappointment walking around the city. We roamed the streets, getting soaked (I told you already August days are unbearable, right?), we went to Great Onofrio's fountain, somewhere at the beginning of Stradun, became one with the crowd, and all our sorrows were gone (including that about my injured foot).
Unfortunately, we did not manage to walk on top of the city walls because my foot had still not healed after that fall during the 1st Day of the trip. But you should definitely go up. They say the view is unique.
Unfortunately, we did not manage to walk on top of the city walls because my foot had still not healed after that fall during the 1st Day of the trip. But you should definitely go up. They say the view is unique.
And let me know when you do, even if you make me more envious.
The City Walls
Great Onofrio's Fountain
So this is how the second day in Dubrovnik ended.
Wait, don’t go! I haven’t told you about the evening – our last one there.
The little port
I’ve already told you how dreamy our first night in Dubrovnik was. We made numerous walks, had Italian pizza and ice-cream at the steps of St. Blaise church, we gazed at the illuminated palaces, we listened to jazz, and we wrapped up our evening at the Old City port, underneath the full moon.
We did more or less the same during our second evening, with the addition of some alcohol.
We walked on Stradun, we listened to live jazz, and we relived the dream for one last time.
On a small street, vertical to Stradun, somewhere, there’s D' Vino, a wine bar with perfect service and even more perfect wine. We chose Wine Tasting of wines from Croatia and Montenegro, and if I had to choose, I would probably pour them all in one glass and take them all down in three sips.
"Wine is the most civilized thing in the world" Ε. Hemingway
After D' Vino, we walked down each narrow street and see what happened.
We suddenly found ourselves sitting on a bench in a super narrow street, holding a fluorescent cocktail Bucket, sipping through two thick plastic straws. And right next to us topless tourists dancing non-stop.
How amazing!
With a bucket in our hands is how we said farewell to the
forever-in-our-hearts Dubrovnik.
forever-in-our-hearts Dubrovnik.
Day 5 will find us wandering in Split. Stay tuned…
Tips of the Day:
1. Go to Café Buza during the day (for just a little) and in the evening (for more).
2. The water of Great Onofrio's Fountain is suitable for drinking, so let it quench your thirst.
3. Make sure to taste a variety of local wines.
Wanna read more? Check the full Road Trip here!
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